きになるクリップする
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やっと予約が出来て初めて訪問させていただきました。料理はおまかせで、13650円程度でお願いしました。店内は、思ったよりも広く、カウンターだけでなく、テーブル席や個室もあるようです。昨年この系列の「石かわ」に行ったとき、同伴者が是非行きたいとのリクエストをやっと実施できました。
出てきた料理は以下の通り。
白 海老とクラゲ 塩昆布和え（宗達の塩昆布のような味わいの塩昆布で和えられた白海老。クラゲの食感も面白く、美味しい）、
白魚と行者にんにくの天ぷら 聖護院蕪のおろし（容器の下には出汁を含んだ聖護院蕪のおろし、白魚と行者にんにくの天ぷらが刺さっているような盛り付け。これも美味しい）、
松葉ガニ甲 羅焼き（松葉ガニと椎茸が蒸したようなご飯の上にのっている。これは普通）、蕗の飛竜頭 鮑 濃厚な 蛤出汁（小さな椀物。鮑は柔らかく、蕗の食感の飛竜頭が心地よい。
吸地は、蛤の潮汁を一層濃厚にしたような味わい。ストレートだが美味しい）、
カワハギ肝 和え 醤油系のジュレ（カワハギの肝和えの肝は生ではなく火が入っているとの事。これは旨い。醤油系のジュレは、私にはちょっと強すぎる印象だった）、
和牛 タケノコ トリュフ（牛肉も炙った筍も美味しい。ソースは、醤油ベースでトリュフも混ざり、スライスしたトリュフもかかっている。トリュフの香りは弱かったが、間違 いない美味しさ）、ホタテ 花わさび（これは普通）、蛍烏賊 白味噌 胡麻豆腐（白味噌の甘みも程よく、蛍烏賊の甘さと良い塩梅。隠れていた胡麻豆腐もまろやかで美味しい。それぞれの甘さでまとめた逸品）、食事はイイダコ、ウニ、新玉葱 の炊き込みご飯（これもイイダコ、ウニ、新玉葱と3種の甘さの融合した炊き込みご飯。美味しいが、蛍烏賊の沖漬けを挟まなかったら、甘さが続いて変化を欲 したかもしれない）、味噌汁、昆布の佃煮と大根の香の物も美味しい。
デザートは、フルーツゼリー寄せ黒蜜とラム酒のソース（ブルーベリーやグレープフルー ツ、苺などが寄せられたゼリーにもラム酒の香りが。そしてソースにもラム酒の香りに黒蜜も。このラム酒と黒蜜のマリアージュが絶妙で素晴らしい出来でした）。
料理はどれも上質の素材を使っていて美味しいし、私は、石かわよりもこちらの方が味がうすめで美味しく感じた。特に、このデザートは素晴らしい。
ただ全体的に感動や驚きを覚える料理はなかったのが残念。「吟龍」などのように季節ごとのさすがとうならせる一皿がほしかった。とはいってもまだ３０代前半と思えるお若いご主人なのでそのレベルはもう少し時間をかける必要があるのかな？と思われる。「いしかわ」の関係でミシュランの☆を獲得するのが少々はやずきたのではないかと思うのは私だけでしょうか？
こちらの料理長の小泉氏は、晴山の山本氏とは同い年で、しかもエコール辻東京で同期だったそうだ。今回調子に乗ってケンゾーエステートの「朝露」「りんどう」というナパの高級ワインハーフボトルを注文したため、ひとり￥３０，０００になってしまったが、まあいいか・・という感じでした。
店舗情報
東京都新宿区神楽坂3-4
03-5225-0807
最寄駅：
飯田橋【東京メトロ南北線 302m、 東京メトロ有楽町線 302m、 JR中央・総武線 382m、 JR中央線(快速) 382m、 都営大江戸線 435m】
平均予算：￥15,001〜￥20,000
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