きになるクリップする
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店舗情報
大阪府大阪市西成区岸里1-3-10
06-6657-2292
最寄駅：
天下茶屋【大阪市営地下鉄堺筋線 202m、 南海高野線(りんかんサンライン) 202m、 南海本線 202m】
岸里【大阪市営地下鉄四つ橋線 235m】
北天下茶屋【阪堺電軌阪堺線 472m】
岸里【大阪市営地下鉄四つ橋線 235m】
北天下茶屋【阪堺電軌阪堺線 472m】
平均予算：￥8,001〜￥10,000
WEBサイト：http://www.yamamean.com/
閉店・問題報告
閉店・間違い報告
このお店が閉店してた、情報に間違いがある等あれば、ご報告ください。
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- 閲覧したお店の履歴
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- 大阪のお店
トルコ料理といえばケバブ！渋谷の「サライ」でドネルケバブを食らう！
三軒茶屋のカフェなら「マメヒコ」のコーヒーでまったりと
「山女庵(和風ジビエ/天下茶屋)」
冬といえばジビエ(野禽)の季節なんで、鹿とか鳩とか鴨とか猪とかが食べたくなって、ジビエを出してくれるフレンチに行くんですけど、今回は和風ジビエの店『山女庵』に行ってきました
店に入ると囲炉裏が仕込まれた長いテーブルが二つ。メンソールは一番奥のトイレ前の席に案内される。テーブルには既に突き出しのナマコ酢と、山女の飴煮がおかれている。他には、ざるに乗せられた下仁田葱、めざし、しいたけがある。で、まずはトリビーをオーダーする。突き出しを食べ終わった頃に、造りの盛り合わせが出てくるんだけど、鹿のキモ、心臓、ローズの造りがメイン。獣肉の臭みはないので、たぶん初心者でも大丈夫。キモを歯が切るときの食感から、新鮮なものであることが判る。
料理は、女将というよりはお母さんが仕切ってくれる。次は鹿肉のボイル。こちらも臭みはなく、味付けは塩のみと思われるシンプルなもの。それでも絶妙の塩加減が旨い。酒類は飲み放題になっている。入り口近くにボトルが並べられているので、自分で選んでも良いし、好みを伝えて選んでもらってもいい。メンソールは一杯目だけはビールにしたものの、あとはすべて日本酒で通した。もちろん燗。純米酒や吟醸酒なんだけど、ちょっとぬるい目の燗をつけてくれて、これがまた料理と合う。
次は囲炉裏に済を入れて、しいたけと下仁田葱を焼く。しいたけの傘の内側にはバターが乗せられていて、炭火で溶けたバターがしいたけに染み渡っていく。このバターをこぼさないように熱々にかぶりつくんだけど、これが旨い。本当にバターの味だけなんかと思うほど。下仁田葱の方は、表面を真っ黒になるまで焦がして、焦がした部分は剥いて中身の白いところだけを味わう。葱の甘みととろみがすごい。岩塩を使うようにいわれるんだけど、塩はなくても十分美味しいし、後半は軽く醤油を使って味のバリエーションを楽しむのも楽しい。
次が、鹿肉のステーキ。これを囲炉裏の炭火で焼く。鹿肉には脂身が少ないので、焼きすぎるとパサパサになるので、レア気味で仕上げる。味付けはたぶん塩胡椒、それにバターを乗せて、ナイフでカットしたりせずに、ダイナミックにかじりつくのがいい。
ラストは猪鍋。脂がしっかりのってて旨い。鹿肉ステーキまででかなりのボリュームがあるはずなんだけど、別腹というのか、どこかに隙間があるのか、食べれてしまう。最後はうどんを入れて〆。
メニューは、飲み放題付のコース(9,000円)のみ。これにチャージ(500円)が付くんかな。で、完全予約制。コースの内容は年に四回変わるらしい。大将は、日曜日に山に入って獲物をしとめてくるので、この店に行くなら月曜日、遅くても火曜日までがお勧め。今回は月曜日を狙ったが、鹿の造りが出せるのは、火曜日までだそう。野禽なんで好みはあると思うけど、9,000円って高いと思うかもしれないけど、十分価値はある。
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